Monday, January 30, 2012

Been a while..

Wow, pretty much a year since my last post and a lot of shit can happen in a year! Did my first full year of graft besides professional surfing, got to experience the best winter KZN had in the last decade, did two overseas trips, one to Mex and one to Bali and had a year of experiences that will last me a lifetime!

So what I am excited about is what this year has to offer! One thing I know is that a lot of change will happen, new experiences will be had and new chapters unfolding.

Here's a pic from yesterday at New Pier, a little bit of cyclonic action from Funso making a couple really fun ones at the piers...
Mike Van Heerden from Ocean Driven Media took the pic!

Hopefully it's not a year til I post again...



Monday, January 31, 2011

Surfing again...

So it's been exactly 12 weeks since I went under the knife for my hip and I just the ALl Clear to start surfing again. SO SToked!!!! It's definitely been a long stint out the water, actually equals the longest I'd had in the past when i broke my leg surfing a 2 ft dairy bowl back when I was 15. But I'm frothing to get back in now, a little apprehensive cause after an injury you always thinking about your hip or what ever you injured, when you start surfing again but hopefully all goes smoothly.

The Oakley One Wave Wonder officially opens today too which is a really good concept on Oakley's part, handing out cash for the best wave each month until June and then the best wave of the 5 months gets an added cash prize at the end! I'm sure there's going to be a lot of entries submitted so pretty amped to check what all the boys come up with!

Looking forward to getting back in the line up and hopefully get a few good waves again...

See ya


Tuesday, November 23, 2010

2 weeks down....

So I've done 2 weeks already since I had my op. start my rehab program today. Seen the doc and says things are looking good so I'm pretty positive that I'll have a full recovery and be back in the water soon. Obviously it's going to take some time, did have some major surgery done but I'm pretty keen to get stuck into this rehab and give it a good go!
It was really good to see Parko come back from his injury and first wave score a perfect 10 and then go onto win the event! Bloody awesome and inspirational too!. Sometimes a forced break is what you need to get the fire burning again...
Will keep you posted as to what they make me do with my rehab!

I've attached a pic that I downloaded from Zigzag as one of their wallpapers you can download. It's from their latest issue, a DPS from my Reunion trip. was just lucky Ewing was in the right place at the right time... Thanks Greg.

Hope you're having a good time where ever you are in this world, make sure you make the most of your opportunities, don't take anything for granted and make sure what ever you do, make it fun!

See ya


Thursday, November 11, 2010

Hip Op

SO I had my hip op done on Tuesday, I guess the op took a little longer than expected, the damage, a little more than what they thought but the doc went in and shaved the bone where he needed to and then repaired the cartilage lining where it had been grinded away. I'll only know in a couple months if the repair was a success, but for now it's just a matter of following the doc's orders, doing my exercises they've given me and taking it easy. Not the easiest for me as I dig to move around a lot but I guess I really should just take advantage of the time off. I must say I have been blessed with an amazing wife who is taking unbelievable care of me, she really is making this easy on me!

So it's crutches for a month, I hope, but then into a full on rehab program to obviously strengthen the muscle around the hip and get me back in the water... It's quite a catch 22 situation that I've had with this hip. I was born with slightly different hips to most people, where my spacing between my femur and the hip joint is quite large, which obviously allowed me to be pretty supple. But because of this large spacing, the hip problem was only picked up much later than a normal case, and so a lot of damage had been done already. Saying that, I did get to enjoy a full international career, I've had the op done now and hopefully I'll be back in the water sooner than later and snagging a barrel or two.

So make sure you get your wave count up now cause when I get back in the water after my time out, I'm pretty certain I'm going to be more frothed out to surf than a 12 yr old kid....



Saturday, November 6, 2010


Wow, what a hectic week with the passing of A.I. , we truely have lost an amazing ambassador for the sport, a friend, a father and husband. He was a great inspiration to many and I'm sure will still inspire many more to come. My thoughts and prayers to go out to Lindie and their expected son, Bruce, his family and close friends. It really has been incredible to see so much support through all the different media outlets for Andy and he deserved it. Rest in Peace Andy, you will be missed buddy!

Then I also got to take my hat off to Kelly Slater who just a few minutes ago, secured his 10th World title along with like his 100th or so World Tour event win, incredible, that's all I can say! A true competitor, a freak of nature and a ten time world champ!!!

As for me, I'm back in SA, been home for about a week now, had a super fun time in the States, got to hang with the Saffa boys there, scored a couple fun waves after the event, went down to southern Cali and had a couple sessions with Dooma and Jordy. But I'm back now, booked in for my hip operation on tuesday, kinda getting nervous for it now but it needs to be done, would like to still surf when I'm 40!

Hopefully I can score a few fun waves before tuesday arvo cause it looks like I'll be sidelined for a few weeks. So until then next post, stay true!