Today was a pretty solid day shooting/filming wise... 3 surfs, one pretty long one at St Leu in the morning, fun cause the swell had just started to build and you could kinda get a glimpse at what this left had to offer. 2nd surf was at a sick left barrel, full on 6 ft freight trains, kinda reminded me of cloudbreak, but we got totally hassled beyond belief by the 7 boogie boarders out there, 10 of us all together in the lineup, and only 7 getting waves, was so messed up. We moved over to the right across the reef pass, i pretty much got the worst beating I've had in over two years, Dan broke his board, a water photog broke his camera and pretty much a waste of time...
3rd surf was at this crazy right that apparently you're not allowed to surf at cause it's a national park, which was quite unique. It definitely has potential, couple solid ones started coming in towards the end of the surf with the swell finally arriving . Dale broke his board here, couple barrels had and all in all a solid day at the office.. Haha you probably thinking, 3 surfs, hard day at the office..please, you probably right but I'm pretty knackered writing this now, swell looks good for tomorrow and I'm sure we're in for a few more days like this last...
Here's a pic from the mountains...
See ya
D

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